Krakow: The Shock of the Old

We’ve just returned from a first trip to Krakow in three years – a post-pandemic pilgrimage.

On our last trip, and prior visits, Krakow seemed to be in a perpetual state of architectural flux. First, they dug up the stunning central square (“Rynek” or market-place) to reveal Kraków’s past, and created an underground museum (worth a visit). Then the twin towers of the famous Mariacki church were clad in scaffolding. On our last visit, it seemed half the streets of Kazimierz, the former Jewish quarter and now expensive hipster hang out, had been dug up. You walked there during the summer in a fug of dust and noise.

But the Poles seem to have used the pandemic – when no doubt the streets were quieter – to complete much of their renovation. Mariacki looks resplendent again, and it’s no challenge to spot the bugler playing the traditional “hejnal” warning every hour from the top of the tallest tower, and waving afterwards to onlookers. The square below is free of excavation, and the old houses along it look freshly restored. And Kazimierz – a poor area after the war where the destitute were housed in the homes of lost Jews – looks more complete than ever, albeit retaining a mournful air of that loss that sits alongside its thriving street scene.

Typical building on main square

The ceiling of the most significant synagogue in Kazimierz – Remuh – named after an important sixteenth century Rabbi, also looked pristine…

Remuh synagogue ceiling

One of the things never ceases to impress me is the great use to which Krakowians put their huge square. It’s all about timing – for example one way or another we always seem to miss the Jewish Cultural Festival that takes place there around end June / early July, and is reputed to be a great experience. Maybe because it clashes with Wimbledon… But we did catch the folk festival (replete with stalls)…

… And the ever popular pierogi (dumplings/ravioli) festival (though the truth is you can get good if not better pierogi from the permanent pierogi establishments around Krakow, all year round)…

But pride of place in this Krakow rebirth goes to Hotel Saski. It holds a place dear to my heart as I used to stay there in my early trips to Krakow back in the early nineties. Situated a literal stone’s throw from the main square, in the heart of the old town, I couldn’t believe its combination of attractive old architecture and modern interior was on offer at such a reasonable price. Well – though I haven’t investigated – that must have changed. Saski has metamorphosed into an exclusive five start hotel – opening just days before we arrived. Fortunately its elegant pastel yellow exterior – though freshened – has been retained, along with its characterful old lift. Though the old chap in uniform who operated it, with an impressive peaked hat and shiny brass buttons, appears to have been pensioned off.

So, as ever, Krakow did not disappoint – including its capacious main square. A friend of mine, who went to Krakow recently and for the first time on my recommendation, has already declared “I love that square”. I take it he didn’t mean me. And I recommend you visit, too.

Read more about Krakow, Poland and Poles in Polska Dotty, and it’s sequel Polska Dotty 2. Available on amazon.